
Well, as you can see from the picture I decided for my first table to be only a table top and not have legs for a bit more portability with the possibility of legs in the future. I have affectionately named it Trial and Error for that exact reason, all of the trial and error that went into my first poker table.
It started out with a 4′x8′ 5/8″ MDF from Home Depot. You can’t really see it but all the measurements have been marked and they are ready for cutting. I decided that this table would be the classic tournament “oval” shape and that it would be approximately an 8 seater at 48″x80″, having cut off 16″ from the end of the board.

Here you can see all the cuts that have been made that will provide the table with the exact shape it will have along with all the scraps and tools used laying right on top. I also plugged in the electric sander and went to work on the edges smoothing them out with a 60 grit to start with and finished it with a 150 grit. I hear you are supposed to go even higher than that but I didn’t feel like making trip number 1,000 to Home Depot. HINT: Prior planning is KEY!

Next you can see that I have cut out the 3″ rail that will go all the way around. This rail here is made out of particle board. This was also cut down to 48″x80″ from a 4′x8′ 5/8″ board from Home Depot. From here on out I won’t bother mentioning Home Depot because that’s where I got everything, except for just a few items that I will point out where they came from as well.

I took the rail back off the main part of the table and got to staining. The one I, and when I say “I” – I really mean Katie, picked out was MINWAX Wood Finish English Chestnut 233. I would say that it came out rather nicely. I put down two coats of this. See, this is where my table differs from most all other tables. I wanted to try my hand at a simple beginner’s table and just use the wood as the playing surface without adding in the felt center. I was partially inspired by a conference table at my roommate Chris’ office that we had a poker night at once, it was very slick. Plus, Katie mentioned how she liked the way the grain of the wood looked once stained and I agreed with her, it gives it character having it look a bit different.

This is me attempting to get rid of a warp in the wood. One end of the board has a significant, at least 1″, warp that I have been trying to get out with limited success. Like I said earlier, this is my first table, so I don’t expect it to be perfect by any means.

These next two shots are of the edge of the table painted with RUST-OLEUM Protective Enamel Flat Black with the first coat of MINWAX Polyurethane Clear Gloss. I would eventually put on four coats of this.


The next three pictures here are of the covering of the rail in doubled up 1/2″ auto trim foam from Fisher Auto Trim here in Lubbock, TX. I got myself only 2 yards of it. If they had 1″ foam then I should have gotten 3 yards of it so that it would be one uniform rail without pieces, trial and error, right? I glued it all down together with the highly recommended 3M “77″ Super spray Ahesive. It worked like a charm as you can see.



Unfortunately I had already bought the vinyl, 2 yards of it, at Hancock Fabrics before I bought the foam and realized it would have been MUCH easier to do it as one large piece instead of four cut outs, but again, this is where I’m learning. The next several photos will take you through my wrapping of the rail in vinyl. This is easily the hardest part of the table and is mostly a two person job, for half of it my girlfriend Katie helped and my roommate Andy helped with the second half of it and my hands are still killing me from this as I type. For the wrapping I used 3/8″ staples and my PowerShot staple gun, beware, you will use hundreds of staples, trust me and you will have some freakish looking forearms when you are finished.






The final two pictures here are of the finished rail flipped over, it doesn’t look half bad for my first rail/upholstery job, a few wrinkles here or there, but not anything I can’t live with. Then comes the completed table top. I secured the rail to the table playing surface with six 1 1/2″ flat wood screws. It worked perfectly and there isn’t any wobble in the rail. I am moving this weekend and having a poker game with beer and pizza for those helping me move so I will have a few more pictures of this thing in action in a few more days.


Those legs in the last photo belong to my roommate Andy. He helped me test it out by throwing cards and chips back and forth across the table with me. I’m really looking forward to playing on it for the first time. Now we’ll see if I have enough time to work on making some coasters out of the MDF that I have left over. I’ll take pictures of that when I’m done.
You should write “Poker Table Building for Dummies.” This is a model of perfection.
So, Chris, if this was a model of perfection then why didn’t you come to play Saturday night with everyone else?
If you use laminated wood (like multiplex) instead of mdf, the warp should be much less.
Don’t get me wrong, mdf is an affordable alternative for the more expensive material choices, but spill one drink on untreated mdf and that part of your table will suck up enough to leave a nasty swollen stain, that cannot be grinded off without noticing later.
Mdf is also sold with a layer of veneer to make it more durable to moist. A foil is commonly applied to the veneer surface when you purchase it. Leave it on till the sawing is done. No need to take it off at the moment. Clamp on pieces of spare wood on top and bottom of the sawing line so the jig-saw will not pull off the veneer. Don’t forget to treat the sawing edges afrerwards, for eventually they might react first even on air humidity causing the edges to curl up.
Veneer is not ot be grinded, but if you take the right precautions before sawing, scratches and splintering can be prevented quite easily.
Cause of this warping might also be the immense surface dimensions of the table. my experience is that if you carve out the center to for example create a felt playing area, most of the warping is easier to adjust.
However, if any of you creative minds is planning on using a plank of massive unlayered wood, prepare for some real warping (during production is only the beginning). Due to temperature and humidity variations regular wood will go off wandering its own way. Result is a colonial vintage table that eventually looks like it hasn’t been put together with much accuracy.
Thanks for the heads up, I will definitely keep those suggestions in mind when I’m building my second table.
Jared,
Not too bad for your first try. Poker carpenter has some good advice. The only thing I can add to that is that like he said the warping continues through the life of the table. I ended up adding supports to all of my tables after my first. Just a couple 2X4s that run the length of the table help a ton. What I really wanted to talk about was your rail. You can save yourself a lot of trouble by doing a couple things. First, a full length piece of vinyl is key. Dapper Dan from HPT gives the best advice as far as wrapping the vinyl but don’t cut out the center first like he did. You need the support of the center to pull the vinyl tightly, which prevents the wrinkles. Next, before you staple go ahead and step right on the rail to compress the foam, pull tight and staple. Then step to the next area, which should be direct opposite side of the rail. Pull vinyl tight before stepping, then step, pull tight, and staple. Do the entire outside. Then cut out inside (PC potato from HPT gives best instructions for this) and staple. Stepping on rail as you go. That should give you a nice wrinkle free rail. Good luck on the next one. By the way, cute girlfriend.
Fellow table builder,
Thanks for the advice, I definitely plan on trying all these new things for my next table… and that’s not my girlfriend anymore, but now my fiance!
Thank you for sharing!
Table looks great but wondering if its getting all scratched up now or not? I want to make one that folds with the wood center piece but unsure of the chips scratching the table over time…
JC2Play,
It’s not getting scratched from chips, cards, cub holders, or anything. It’s still holding up great, it’s been a big party hit.